bittybitesbaker

KITCHEN CHEMISTRY

The rise is
a reaction.

Every fluffy fairy cake starts with a little white powder.

Bicarbonate of soda and baking powder both release carbon dioxide, but they need different triggers. Knowing which one a recipe uses, and why, explains most flat or soapy bakes.

Small golden fairy cakes in paper cases cooling on a wire rack beside a small bowl of white raising powder and a measuring spoon
AI-generated image, not a photograph of a real person or place.

CO2 LIFT acid, heat or both

  • Bicarb needs an acid
  • Powder packs its own
  • Measure it level
  • A pinch decides the crumb

THE SHORT ANSWER

Same gas,
different trigger.

Both powders rely on sodium bicarbonate.
What changes is how the gas gets released.

BICARBONATE OF SODA

Give it an acid

Bicarb is pure sodium bicarbonate. Recipes with an acidic ingredient, such as buttermilk, lemon juice or honey, usually use it to make the gas.

Check your bowl

HEAT

Or give it heat

Heated on its own, bicarb breaks down into sodium carbonate, water and carbon dioxide. That is what puffs up honeycomb in the pan.

See the numbers

BAKING POWDER

Acid already inside

Baking powder is bicarb mixed with a powdered acid. Moisture and heat set it off, so it works in recipes with no acidic ingredient.

Use it well

A QUICK RECIPE CHECK

What is in
the bowl?

Pick the kind of recipe to see which raising agent usually does the work. The bar shows how much the recipe leans on bicarbonate of soda rather than baking powder.

Recipe check

Choose a recipe type
Plain sponge with milkBaking powder

With no acidic ingredient in the mix, the recipe needs an acid supplied in the powder. Baking powder carries its own, so it is the usual choice.

Cookies with lemonOften both

Some recipes use both. Part of the acid, such as citric acid from lemon juice, is left unreacted on purpose so it can still be tasted.

Buttermilk scones or pancakesBicarb

Buttermilk is acidic, so bicarbonate of soda alone can react with it to release carbon dioxide.

Gingerbread with molassesBicarb

Brown sugar, molasses, chocolate, honey and sour cream are acidic ingredients often found in recipes that use baking soda.

Honeycomb toffeeBicarb + heat

Stirred into hot sugar syrup, bicarb breaks down with heat and the gas puffs the mixture into a honeycomb full of little bubbles.

Sources: McGill University Office for Science and Society (2022); NDSU Extension (2013); Royal Society of Chemistry, Inspirational chemistry: Baking powder.

General kitchen chemistry from university and Royal Society of Chemistry teaching sources. Always follow a tested recipe's own amounts.

TWO NUMBERS WORTH KNOWING

A little goes
a long way.

One figure on strength,
one on the heat that sets bicarb off.

4× stronger

Leavening power, bicarb vs baking powder

North Dakota State University Extension says baking soda has four times the leavening power of baking powder, and about 1/4 teaspoon of soda is enough to leaven a cup of flour.

STRENGTH · NDSU EXTENSION

≈ 80°C

Where bicarb starts to break down

McGill's Office for Science and Society puts the minimum temperature for the heat reaction at around 80°C (180°F), well below normal baking temperatures.

HEAT · McGILL OSS

With an acid, bicarb releases one molecule of carbon dioxide for each molecule of sodium bicarbonate. With heat alone it takes two molecules to release one, so the acid route gets more lift from the same amount.

FOUR HABITS FOR A GOOD RISE

Light crumb,
no soapy taste.

Raising agents are measured in teaspoons, so small slips show. These habits come from the same extension and chemistry sources.

  • Level the spoon

    A heaped teaspoon of bicarb can give heavy or fallen cakes and bitter or soapy-tasting cookies.

  • Match the agent to the acid

    Bicarb needs an acidic ingredient; baking powder is the reliable choice when the recipe has none.

  • Do not swap one for one

    Baking powder holds less bicarbonate per spoonful, and soda needs extra acid. Any swap changes taste and texture.

  • Do not overmix

    Stir cookies and quick breads only until combined: mixing develops gluten and makes them tough.

A slab of golden honeycomb toffee full of tiny bubbles, broken into pieces on baking paper
AI-generated image, not a photograph of a real person or place.

FAST, SLOW AND DOUBLE

When the bubbles
appear.

Buttermilk being poured from a jug into a mixing bowl of flour on a wooden kitchen worktop
AI-generated image, not a photograph of a real person or place.

Baking powders are classed as fast or slow acting. Slow-acting powders may use acids such as sodium aluminium sulphate or anhydrous monocalcium phosphate, and make little gas until the mixture is heated.

Double-acting powder contains two acids: one dissolves quickly and starts the rise in the bowl, the other works again in the oven. The British chemist Alfred Bird made an early baking powder in 1843, for a wife who could not eat yeast.

Questions

Questions people ask

What is the difference between bicarbonate of soda and baking powder?

Bicarbonate of soda (baking soda) is pure sodium bicarbonate. Baking powder is sodium bicarbonate combined with a powdered acid, so it reacts with moisture and heat without needing an acidic ingredient in the recipe.

Why do some recipes use both?

When a recipe has an acid, bicarb reacts with it. Baking powder may be added too so that some of the acid, for example from lemon juice, is left behind for flavour, while the powder still gives a reliable rise.

Can I use baking powder instead of bicarb?

Only with adjustments. Baking powder contains less sodium bicarbonate per spoonful, so more is needed, and bicarb used in place of powder needs an added acid such as cream of tartar. Taste and texture may change.

Why does my cake taste soapy?

Too much bicarbonate of soda, or not enough acid for it to react with, can leave bitter or soapy flavours. NDSU Extension warns that a heaped teaspoon can also give heavy or fallen cakes.

What are E500 and E503 on a label?

They are raising agents on the UK list of approved additives: E500 is sodium carbonates and E503 is ammonium carbonates. Diphosphates (E450) and calcium phosphates (E341) are listed too.

Sources

Where the facts come from

  1. McGill University Office for Science and Society: What's the difference between baking soda and baking powder?
  2. NDSU Extension, Prairie Fare: Add to the levity of baking with these tips
  3. Royal Society of Chemistry, Inspirational chemistry: Baking powder (teaching resource)
  4. GOV.UK (Food Standards Agency): Approved additives and E numbers

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